The Basics

Scratching

Scratching is a normal behavior in cats. Cats have scent glands in their feet and when they scratch, they not only sharpen their claws, but they mark scent as well. Cats will also scratch before, during and after play; after awaking to get a good “stretch” and when protecting themselves from animals or humans which they find threatening.

Outdoors a cat will use a favorite scratching area, usually a particular tree. It will return to this tree both from habit as well as to freshen its scent, very similar to the male dog who routinely lifts his leg on the same tree or in the same spot every morning. Unfortunately, the cat’s favorite spot may not be appropriate to you. For example, their favorite scratching spot may be your stereo speakers, leather sofa or your curtains. The longer your cat has used this favorite site as their scratching post, the more difficult it may be to retrain them. Time and patience are the key.

You should not punish the cat for scratching in undesirable areas. Punishment will only teach the cat to mistrust you or not to scratch in the area when you are present. It can also make the problem worse or create other bad behaviors, such as urine marking. There are two steps to redirecting the cat to an appropriate scratching post. First, make the cat’s scratching area unappealing to them. For example, if your cat enjoys sharpening their claws on your sofa, cover the area with aluminum foil, plastic wrap or cheese cloth so the area becomes less desirable. You can also use repellent sprays (citrus or menthol scented) which have an offensive odor to cats, but will not harm your furniture. Prior to spraying, you must remove the cat’s scent by shampooing the area. It may take a few tries before you find what deterrent will work with your cat. Another method of discouraging your cat from using an inappropriate scratching area is to booby trap the site. Fill an empty soda can with a few pennies and tie a piece of string to the can. Tack the string across the scratching area. When the cat scratches, the can will fall on the cat. Most cats will never return to that area again. To ensure that they do not, keep the trap up for at least a week or two to reinforce the negative result. The first step only discourages the cat from scratching in particular areas. Now, you must teach kitty where it can scratch.

It is very rare that a cat will just approach a store-bought scratching post and know that this is where the owner wants it to scratch. You must take time to teach them to use it. Never force your cat to use the post. If you do this, the cat will only associate the post with something unpleasant. Cats do not like to be forced to do anything: instead, entice the cat by having positive things occur near the scratching post. There are several ways to get your cat interested in the post. If your cat likes catnip, rub some on the post and place come special treats at varying levels of the post for rewards. Feeding your cat near the post will often spark interest in the post. Lure your cat to the post and have the cat chase an object on a string up the post. Once the cat feels the material and begins to scratch, reward it with a special treat and praise. Always keep the scratching post in an area where your cat usually sleeps. Cats usually stretch upon awakening and will look for a desirable area to scratch. If the post is nearby, the cat will learn to use this post as a stretching zone.

The scratching post must be long enough (three feet or more) for your cat to stretch on. It must also be sturdy so it does not teeter when the cat begins to scratch. Sometimes it is necessary to have a variety of posts with different surfaces scattered around the house in order to find one which your cat enjoys. This is less expensive in the long run that replacing your furniture, carpets and draperies.

If you have made every attempt to teach kitty to scratch in appropriate areas, but have been unsuccessful, a short-term solution is to use commercially made plastic claw covers that are glued on to cover the nails. These do not provide a long-term solution and cannot be left on the cat forever.

The key is to begin training early. You must be consistent, patient and careful not to become angry or frustrated. If you cannot supervise your kitten or cat during this process, restriction to one room is mandatory. Freedom is earned when the cat proves itself to be reliable to follow the rules throughout the house. Putting the time in to teach your cat what is expected of them will give you great rewards.

Walk on a leash

Yes, it is possible to teach your cat to walk on a leash! As long as you make it a pleasant experience, your cat should come to enjoy this time with you. To start, select a harness that fits your cat - not too loose so your cat slips out, but not too tight where they feel restricted.

Before going outside, put the harness on your cat and attach a lightweight leash. Let them drag the leash around and chase it. Once they associate the harness and leash with playtime, you can move outside. Still taking it slow, take your cat out into your yard. Let them get accustom to being outside; let them explore at their own pace. If they need coaxing, offer them treats when they come to you, or have another family member stand at a distance and offer them treats. Once they start walking on the leash, let them lead the way - within reason of course. Remember that anytime you take your cat outside, they may be exposed to fleas, parasites, some diseases and other dangers. Please take every precaution to keep your cat safe!

Solving Litter Box Problems

Housetraining

When a cat starts urinating inside its home, whether male or female, neutered or not, the pet is trying to apply its personal identity “brand” on the territory. It is a sort of feline mark of Zorro, saying, “I am here and here to stay!” The underlying reasons for this problem range from under- to over-indulgence by people, or the presence of another cat’s urine inside or outside the home. From the pet’s point of view the behavior is quite natural and achieves its goal of temporary relief from feelings of insecurity about its territory. However, the odor and discoloration accompanying it provide cat owners with nothing but eyesores and offended nostrils.

Puddles

Spraying is different from simple puddles of urine around the home. If your problem is the puddling type, you will need to provide your pet with a simple house training plan centered on a litter box or an area that you want your cat or kitten to use as a toilet place. It is not difficult. Most felines, given a chance to dig a little hole in the area, will acquire a lifelong habit of using it. The trick in establishing the habit is to praise the pet immediately after it has completed its duty right there at that place, not when it has left the area. Along with this procedure it is of utmost importance to keep the litter box or other area cleaned up daily. Further, the litter material must be replaced with clean material at least once a week, depending on the area’s size and size of your pet. Bigger cats use litter material quicker than do tiny cats or kittens. So, as kittens mature, it may be necessary to change from once a week to a twice a week schedule. In my experience this is the single, most overlooked aspect of raising and training cats. So many of my clients have said,”Tabby was just perfect for the first six months, and then this terrible soiling started around the house!” Too often we forget that our kittens so soon become cats.

Clean-up

Another important step is proper clean-up of accidents whether from puddling, defecation, or spraying behavior. Although there are several commercial liquids available for cleaning, plain lukewarm water mixed half and half with white vinegar is about as effective as anything. This mixture should be doused or sponged generously on the area so as to dilute the offensive residue. Allow it to remain for about ten minutes, then completely blot it up with paper towels until dry to the touch. Then repeat the process once more.

Spraying

To solve the problem of spraying urine, you will need to consider the total life you are leading with your pet. The arrival of a new baby, another pet, house guests, etc., may result in the cat getting less attention than they are accustomed to receiving. If this is the case, make it a point to have a couple of play sessions each day. Use a favorite toy and really get involved with your pet for a few minutes in each session.

If you think you are doting too heavily, petting too much, or otherwise overindulging your cat, taper off gradually from the stroking and petting and introduce the play sessions. Play is a necessary aspect to many cats. Too often as our kittens grow up, we forget about playing. Quite naturally the cat feels the loss. The result can be spraying. Play sessions have proved most valuable in solving the problem.

Feeding

Besides play sessions and applying proper clean-up procedures, another step should be taken which involves feeding. Before going into detail about this, it is necessary to appreciate that cats are basically fastidious animals about their toilet habits. They loathe to eliminate in the same area as they eat. This makes sense for the propagation of the species and is probably part of their genetic behavioral potential. That is to say…given the opportunity to be hygienic, cats will be so. Therefore the final step in solving the spraying behavior exploits this tendency. If your pet has a favorite spot for its spraying, feed it at that spot, after proper cleaning the area, of course. If it has two spots, split each feeding into two dishes and place them at the spots. Leave the dishes down between feedings, washing them before each feeding time. This should be done until four days have passed wherein the cat has not soiled in these areas. Then resume feeding at the regular place.

If your pet regresses and soils or sprays again, re-start the spot feeding program until another four days perfect performances have been achieved. Then, it is back to feeding at the regular location! Keep this up until the problem is resolved. In case you wondered, the most spray areas an owner has had to deal with in this plan is thirteen. That’s right…the pet’s food ration was split between thirteen dishes! But it took only two weeks for the problem to clear up. The problem had existed for two years prior to my plan, so it was worth applying the entire program.

Spay or Neuter

If your pet is not neutered, discuss this aspect with your veterinarian. In my experience, neutering is the kindest step. It alleviated the extreme frustrations of thwarted sexual drives, whether male or female. Proper post-operative care and feeding as advised by your veterinarian will avoid obesity later on. Also your pet will lead a much more contented life.